Herve Leger's S/S 2011 Collection Breaks Max Azria’s Streak of Stripped-down Simplicity
POSTED September 14, 2010
FASHION WEEK
Alexander Patino
Max Azria is the busiest man at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. BCBGMAXAZRIA and Max Azria already made their hushed, bare bones walks down the runway, respectively, instilling just a
tinge of fear in his followers: would Herve Leger be another minimalist, if even repetitive endeavor? It’s such a relief to report in the negative. Herve Leger, a house which is practically
completely invested in the conceit of one garment – the bandage dress – has twisted, woven, corseted, perforated and lasered the bandage dress into more provocative and dazzling
combinations to make one’s head spin.
Modern-day Marie Antoinette was the conceit du jour, made especially clear on a runway blasting Siouxsie and the Banshees’ “Hong Kong Garden” which played in the 2006 Sofia Coppola
film. Corseted, hourglass silhouettes, made playful an exquisitely juxtaposed with bustle skirts was daring for the house, finding new ways to play with volume in such an inflexible concept.
Nude organza rivulets and eye-catching basket weaving brought the intricacy of the designs of yore to a fiery, exciting today. The only problem is – which bandage dress to pick! The out of
this world silver foil-printed bandage dress? The pink leather and bandage weave strapless corset dress? The nude perforated numbers or maybe the black laser-cut leather bandage
dress? So many choices in so many different combinations! How is a girl ever to choose?
tinge of fear in his followers: would Herve Leger be another minimalist, if even repetitive endeavor? It’s such a relief to report in the negative. Herve Leger, a house which is practically
completely invested in the conceit of one garment – the bandage dress – has twisted, woven, corseted, perforated and lasered the bandage dress into more provocative and dazzling
combinations to make one’s head spin.
Modern-day Marie Antoinette was the conceit du jour, made especially clear on a runway blasting Siouxsie and the Banshees’ “Hong Kong Garden” which played in the 2006 Sofia Coppola
film. Corseted, hourglass silhouettes, made playful an exquisitely juxtaposed with bustle skirts was daring for the house, finding new ways to play with volume in such an inflexible concept.
Nude organza rivulets and eye-catching basket weaving brought the intricacy of the designs of yore to a fiery, exciting today. The only problem is – which bandage dress to pick! The out of
this world silver foil-printed bandage dress? The pink leather and bandage weave strapless corset dress? The nude perforated numbers or maybe the black laser-cut leather bandage
dress? So many choices in so many different combinations! How is a girl ever to choose?
Photo Credit: Fernando Colon
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Pamella Roland Packs Major Mediterranean Allure in Her Greek Isle Inspired Collection
POSTED September 14, 2010
FASHION WEEK
Alexander Patino
Hilary Swank, Denise Richards and Lori Loughlin were just some of the high-profile Hollywood starlets that made it out to the Whitney Museum of American Art for Pamella Roland’s spring
2011 collection presentation. This is the designer’s first presentation format since debuting on the New York runway back in the fall of 2002. Considering the upper echelon Roland
clientele, the Mediterranean Greek isle allure of the collection and the fact that Roland happens to be a member of the Board of Trustees of the New York institution, the marriage of scenery
and occasion couldn’t have complemented each other better.
Roland’s recent travels to Greece inspired her new luxurious collection. Hydra, Santorini, Rhodes, Mykonos and Patmos were all represented, with each Greek isle sectioned to different
areas of the Whitney’s main entrance. The best of the best was up front and center. The blue painted windows of Santorini were the most successful source of inspiration on a holistic level,
although the scintillant sparkle of Mykonos’ crystalline waters became fully palpable in her fully embroidered silver gowns, which had to be some of the classiest, richest and mesmerizing
gowns seen all season.
But Santorini really had the clearest and most accessible point of view. The first in line, a Mediterranean blue/navy tile print silk draped bodice gown with tulle and grosgrain details had
attendees pointing and shoving for a better look at the details. Even the mannequin’s lax and loungy positioning translated the mutual exclusivity of fun and elegance that the Greek Isles,
and thusly Ms. Roland’s collection, has to offer.
As literal as Roland tried to get in conveying the magic and drama of the Greek isles, some locations and their corresponding garments obviously trumped and stood out amongst others.
The stone and bone of Medieval and Christian architecture in Roland’s Rhodes and Patmos offerings were just a tad too muted. It was difficult not to just scoot along from Patmos’ bone
crepe strapless dresses when the glorious sunburstings of Hydra are calling your eye from across the room.
2011 collection presentation. This is the designer’s first presentation format since debuting on the New York runway back in the fall of 2002. Considering the upper echelon Roland
clientele, the Mediterranean Greek isle allure of the collection and the fact that Roland happens to be a member of the Board of Trustees of the New York institution, the marriage of scenery
and occasion couldn’t have complemented each other better.
Roland’s recent travels to Greece inspired her new luxurious collection. Hydra, Santorini, Rhodes, Mykonos and Patmos were all represented, with each Greek isle sectioned to different
areas of the Whitney’s main entrance. The best of the best was up front and center. The blue painted windows of Santorini were the most successful source of inspiration on a holistic level,
although the scintillant sparkle of Mykonos’ crystalline waters became fully palpable in her fully embroidered silver gowns, which had to be some of the classiest, richest and mesmerizing
gowns seen all season.
But Santorini really had the clearest and most accessible point of view. The first in line, a Mediterranean blue/navy tile print silk draped bodice gown with tulle and grosgrain details had
attendees pointing and shoving for a better look at the details. Even the mannequin’s lax and loungy positioning translated the mutual exclusivity of fun and elegance that the Greek Isles,
and thusly Ms. Roland’s collection, has to offer.
As literal as Roland tried to get in conveying the magic and drama of the Greek isles, some locations and their corresponding garments obviously trumped and stood out amongst others.
The stone and bone of Medieval and Christian architecture in Roland’s Rhodes and Patmos offerings were just a tad too muted. It was difficult not to just scoot along from Patmos’ bone
crepe strapless dresses when the glorious sunburstings of Hydra are calling your eye from across the room.
| View Coverage of MBFW NY Spring Summer 2011 DAY 1 - DAY 2 - DAY 3 - DAY 4 - DAY 5 - CURRENT- DAY 7 - DAY 8 |
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G-Star Does Away with Last Season’s Pops of Color, but Keeps the Essential Rawness
POSTED September 14, 2010
FASHION WEEK
Alexander Patino
A G-Star NY Raw collection really lassos in the celebrity hordes. G-Star regulars like Tyson Beckford and Kelly Osbourne were in attendance. Celebs such as Kelly Rowland, Omarion and
Eric Balfour were also among the attendees at the Pier 94 show. G-Star also has a talent for roping in the big name supermodels. It was surprising to see Liu Wen, Siri Tollerod and
especially Bregje Heinen, Holland’s hottest sartorial export, walking down the G-Star runway clad in denim. Just goes to show that serious denim has a place in MBFW. This isn’t Osh Kosh
B’Gosh. G-Star takes what we see and what we use every day and makes it vital, exciting and important.
And what a complete 180 degree turn G-Star took this season from the buckets and fascinating globs of Technicolor that made up their fall collection back in February. Someone took the
remote control and turned the contrast all the way to low. A parade of blanched denim opened the show; keeping in line with the spring fashion consensus that white is the new black. And
as always, the show was extensive, yet fast and kinetic. Sixty looks were presented and some models appeared up to three or four times on the runway. Our eyes were trying to keep up
almost as fast as the models were.
It’s great to report that acid washed jeans are back, but in the easiest, least encumbering and fun way. One pair of Raw essentials was a turpin acid-washed shorts that had a subtle, yet
playful patches of regular denim adhered strategically by the knee-caps. Scalloped hems, exposed ankles and the fun use of backpacks as bustles infused the whole collection with a chic
makeshift, think-fast attitude. Sure we like our Raw to be crazy and idiosyncratic (it helps to elevate ordinary denim to a new sphere like the last fall collection showed), but it’s reassuring to
know that subtle Raw still brings that sexy and always fun edge its fans are always looking forward to.
Eric Balfour were also among the attendees at the Pier 94 show. G-Star also has a talent for roping in the big name supermodels. It was surprising to see Liu Wen, Siri Tollerod and
especially Bregje Heinen, Holland’s hottest sartorial export, walking down the G-Star runway clad in denim. Just goes to show that serious denim has a place in MBFW. This isn’t Osh Kosh
B’Gosh. G-Star takes what we see and what we use every day and makes it vital, exciting and important.
And what a complete 180 degree turn G-Star took this season from the buckets and fascinating globs of Technicolor that made up their fall collection back in February. Someone took the
remote control and turned the contrast all the way to low. A parade of blanched denim opened the show; keeping in line with the spring fashion consensus that white is the new black. And
as always, the show was extensive, yet fast and kinetic. Sixty looks were presented and some models appeared up to three or four times on the runway. Our eyes were trying to keep up
almost as fast as the models were.
It’s great to report that acid washed jeans are back, but in the easiest, least encumbering and fun way. One pair of Raw essentials was a turpin acid-washed shorts that had a subtle, yet
playful patches of regular denim adhered strategically by the knee-caps. Scalloped hems, exposed ankles and the fun use of backpacks as bustles infused the whole collection with a chic
makeshift, think-fast attitude. Sure we like our Raw to be crazy and idiosyncratic (it helps to elevate ordinary denim to a new sphere like the last fall collection showed), but it’s reassuring to
know that subtle Raw still brings that sexy and always fun edge its fans are always looking forward to.
