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BCBGMAXAZRIA Spring/Summer 2011 Inspires Timelessness, but Not Wonder
POSTED September 10, 2010
FASHION WEEK
Alexander Patino
BCBGMAXAZRIA, the first of three Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week scheduled shows for the husband and wife design duo, Max and Lubov Azria, opened with one absolutely perfect white
seersucker long dress. It was perfect, but that doesn’t become totally clear until you’ve seen the entire run of Azria’s show. There was an obvious color gradation in the run of the show –
moving from scintillant whites to dim champagnes and taupes, to blacks and tans, ending in beautiful color blocking (finally some color!) that helped alleviate some of the overwhelming
conservatism that led to that point.
Was this really a BCBGMAXAZRIA offering? Where was the youth factor? BCBG use to be provocative and now the line appears to be moving into stark, seriousness for spring 2011. The
micro-mini shifts that accompanied most pieces worked nicely and added a somewhat reined-in sense of fun. As for what this all means for spring trends – the Azrias see it quite clearly:
whites and embroidery. We couldn’t agree more – but let’s hope that the Azria’s fellow designers presenting here at MBFW show that white and embroidery can be more than just beautiful
– it can be fun too. With two shows left to go, here’s hoping that the Azria’s somber notes aren’t spread completely across their board.
seersucker long dress. It was perfect, but that doesn’t become totally clear until you’ve seen the entire run of Azria’s show. There was an obvious color gradation in the run of the show –
moving from scintillant whites to dim champagnes and taupes, to blacks and tans, ending in beautiful color blocking (finally some color!) that helped alleviate some of the overwhelming
conservatism that led to that point.
Was this really a BCBGMAXAZRIA offering? Where was the youth factor? BCBG use to be provocative and now the line appears to be moving into stark, seriousness for spring 2011. The
micro-mini shifts that accompanied most pieces worked nicely and added a somewhat reined-in sense of fun. As for what this all means for spring trends – the Azrias see it quite clearly:
whites and embroidery. We couldn’t agree more – but let’s hope that the Azria’s fellow designers presenting here at MBFW show that white and embroidery can be more than just beautiful
– it can be fun too. With two shows left to go, here’s hoping that the Azria’s somber notes aren’t spread completely across their board.
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Photo Credit: Fernando Colon
MATAANO Finally Takes a Chance On Separates for Spring 2011
POSTED September 10, 2010
FASHION WEEK
Alexander Patino
“We wanted wearable pieces and we transitioned from just dresses to include separates,” says Ayaan Mohallim who admits to having grown exponentially as a designer alongside her
twin sister Idyl since they first launched MATAANO over two years ago. “Our fourth collection is from work to play, trendy yet classic – and a little bit resort. We wanted diversity.”
That note wasn’t hard to miss considering MATAANO’s billowy gown repertoire. The expanse is more than welcome. They should’ve been doing separates all along, judging from the taste
and skill behind ensembles like a rosy leather jacket with patch pockets and a snug, yet tasteful silk shantung high-waist short (the only high-waisted piece I can condone this season).
Right on point with the emerging trends of the season, the Mohallim girls went for the hand-worked embellishments. The black pieces were counterbalanced with black and white Chantilly
lace. One Italian silk shantung dress with Chantilly was elegant, yet provocative – like a French maid who went to the sewing room on her uniform before going out for the night with her
girls. Just as they succeeded moreso on their separates than in their notable dresses, the collection attained a greater fusion of youth and feminine prowess in their solids. Their feel for
desert sky and desert blossoms felt richer and more chic in the pure whites and blushes than in their choice of prints. Regardless, MATAANO has stepped proudly into a new direction and
from the looks of what they’ve got to give – they’re going to be seeing girls everywhere ponying up some dough.
twin sister Idyl since they first launched MATAANO over two years ago. “Our fourth collection is from work to play, trendy yet classic – and a little bit resort. We wanted diversity.”
That note wasn’t hard to miss considering MATAANO’s billowy gown repertoire. The expanse is more than welcome. They should’ve been doing separates all along, judging from the taste
and skill behind ensembles like a rosy leather jacket with patch pockets and a snug, yet tasteful silk shantung high-waist short (the only high-waisted piece I can condone this season).
Right on point with the emerging trends of the season, the Mohallim girls went for the hand-worked embellishments. The black pieces were counterbalanced with black and white Chantilly
lace. One Italian silk shantung dress with Chantilly was elegant, yet provocative – like a French maid who went to the sewing room on her uniform before going out for the night with her
girls. Just as they succeeded moreso on their separates than in their notable dresses, the collection attained a greater fusion of youth and feminine prowess in their solids. Their feel for
desert sky and desert blossoms felt richer and more chic in the pure whites and blushes than in their choice of prints. Regardless, MATAANO has stepped proudly into a new direction and
from the looks of what they’ve got to give – they’re going to be seeing girls everywhere ponying up some dough.
PORTS 1961: Essadi Spring 2011
ess’a’di/: the pseudonym used by explorer Isabelle Eberhardt
while journeying into North Africa in the 19th century.
With “Essadi” – PORTS 1961’s new Spring 2011 offering, Fiona Cibani takes the
reins from sister Tia (who designed the house’s dazzling and opulent Fall 2010
collection) and brings that mystical, somehow out of this world feel that is so
prevalent in Tia’s designs, down to Earth – to Northern Africa to be exact.
PORTS should’ve stayed in the clouds. There are moments when that Moroccan
desert is almost palpable. That’s truly where some of these pieces belong, in
particular a sapphire mosaic print shirtdress, as well as a rosette gem pleat dress.
But ‘haute caravan’ just happened, precisely two years ago. Ralph Lauren Spring
2009 anyone? It’s a shame that the issues aren’t simply temporal. Those well
versed in the PORTS 1961 aesthetic will see the changes instantly. The PORTS
brand is expensive because it looks expensive – from design to styling – a PORTS
runway is pure exuberance, and yet, a number of pieces from Fiona Cibani’s
“Essadi” look (shall we/dare we say it?)…well, cheap. And what’s really to blame?
Something one would never expect from PORTS 1961 – a dismal color palette.
The dusty and soft colors that generally imbue the PORTS line – the dunes, micas,
willows, saharas – grounded the collection this go-around as well, but the gem
tones that contrast these delicate, muted colors were painfully unfortunate choices.
The taste level was brought down dramatically by a very unflattering use of emerald,
sapphire and amethyst. It was not easy watching Freja Beha Erichsen (without
question one of the most stunning beauties in the world) walking down the runway
in that pyrite freya trench and flared leg trouser, over an emerald draped shell top. It
was not the North American desert – it was absolutely clinical.
The styling must be mentioned. When seamless beauties like Sigrid Agren and
Magdalena Frackowiak walk down the runway looking like thirty-something bit
players from Dynasty, something has to be amiss. Was there some homage to
Linda Evans that we missed? Well, here’s to hoping this was a mere bump in the
road for PORTS 1961. We know what this brand is capable of and we have faith it’ll
pick itself back up and brush that Saharan dust off its shoulder for Fall 2011.
ess’a’di/: the pseudonym used by explorer Isabelle Eberhardt
while journeying into North Africa in the 19th century.
With “Essadi” – PORTS 1961’s new Spring 2011 offering, Fiona Cibani takes the
reins from sister Tia (who designed the house’s dazzling and opulent Fall 2010
collection) and brings that mystical, somehow out of this world feel that is so
prevalent in Tia’s designs, down to Earth – to Northern Africa to be exact.
PORTS should’ve stayed in the clouds. There are moments when that Moroccan
desert is almost palpable. That’s truly where some of these pieces belong, in
particular a sapphire mosaic print shirtdress, as well as a rosette gem pleat dress.
But ‘haute caravan’ just happened, precisely two years ago. Ralph Lauren Spring
2009 anyone? It’s a shame that the issues aren’t simply temporal. Those well
versed in the PORTS 1961 aesthetic will see the changes instantly. The PORTS
brand is expensive because it looks expensive – from design to styling – a PORTS
runway is pure exuberance, and yet, a number of pieces from Fiona Cibani’s
“Essadi” look (shall we/dare we say it?)…well, cheap. And what’s really to blame?
Something one would never expect from PORTS 1961 – a dismal color palette.
The dusty and soft colors that generally imbue the PORTS line – the dunes, micas,
willows, saharas – grounded the collection this go-around as well, but the gem
tones that contrast these delicate, muted colors were painfully unfortunate choices.
The taste level was brought down dramatically by a very unflattering use of emerald,
sapphire and amethyst. It was not easy watching Freja Beha Erichsen (without
question one of the most stunning beauties in the world) walking down the runway
in that pyrite freya trench and flared leg trouser, over an emerald draped shell top. It
was not the North American desert – it was absolutely clinical.
The styling must be mentioned. When seamless beauties like Sigrid Agren and
Magdalena Frackowiak walk down the runway looking like thirty-something bit
players from Dynasty, something has to be amiss. Was there some homage to
Linda Evans that we missed? Well, here’s to hoping this was a mere bump in the
road for PORTS 1961. We know what this brand is capable of and we have faith it’ll
pick itself back up and brush that Saharan dust off its shoulder for Fall 2011.
PORTS 1961 Takes a Trip To the North African Desert for Spring/Summer 2011
POSTED September 10, 2010
FASHION WEEK
Alexander Patino
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