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Is There Such a Thing as Too Much Girliness? Yoana Baraschi Doesn’t Seem to Think So
POSTED September 11, 2010
FASHION WEEK
Alexander Patino
The Box was packed with fashion-goers trying to get a glimpse (and a glass of champagne) at Yoana Baraschi’s creative manifesto for spring/summer 2011. In addition to the space being
pack the collection was packed with too many contrary ideas. Let’s see if we can tally up just some of the elements at work: berets, polka dots, embroidery, safari dresses, nautical blazers,
prairie-girl Lolita socks, flower prints, bird prints. Are you exhausted yet? Confused?
The connecting thread was a saccharine hodgepodge of girliness that in most cases lacked a very necessary sense of refinement. There was one piece though (worn by one of Fashion
Q&A’s new favorite up and coming girls, Ping, who earlier this week walked for Ports 1961) that held that haute and wearable modernity that so many other ensembles lacked – a mini
trench with rouched front and draped pencil skirt in chalk white parachute cotton that was paired with a draped blouse in digital leopard washed crepe de chine. It was a very tasteful, new
way to do safari – in white and not a beat-you-over-the-head/in-your-face safari. If only Baraschi had as keen an editorial eye on the rest of her collection as she had on this one solid
opening piece – maybe things would’ve worked out after all. We are excited to see what this MBFW NY newcomer has in store next season as she grows from this collection.
pack the collection was packed with too many contrary ideas. Let’s see if we can tally up just some of the elements at work: berets, polka dots, embroidery, safari dresses, nautical blazers,
prairie-girl Lolita socks, flower prints, bird prints. Are you exhausted yet? Confused?
The connecting thread was a saccharine hodgepodge of girliness that in most cases lacked a very necessary sense of refinement. There was one piece though (worn by one of Fashion
Q&A’s new favorite up and coming girls, Ping, who earlier this week walked for Ports 1961) that held that haute and wearable modernity that so many other ensembles lacked – a mini
trench with rouched front and draped pencil skirt in chalk white parachute cotton that was paired with a draped blouse in digital leopard washed crepe de chine. It was a very tasteful, new
way to do safari – in white and not a beat-you-over-the-head/in-your-face safari. If only Baraschi had as keen an editorial eye on the rest of her collection as she had on this one solid
opening piece – maybe things would’ve worked out after all. We are excited to see what this MBFW NY newcomer has in store next season as she grows from this collection.
Photo Credit: Fernando Colon
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Callula Lillibelle Ditches the Mad Men Mania for Spring 2011 & Starts Living in The Now
POSTED September 11, 2010
FASHION WEEK
Alexander Patino
The first few shows at the MBFW tents latched onto ease, starkness and simplicity – show after show of simple silhouettes against whites and off-whites galore. A little trip to Hell’s Kitchen
was just the ticket we needed to get that sense of fun and pop of color spring 2011 had been lacking so thoroughly.
Walking in and seeing the models on stadium risers, it was hard to believe how sharp the departures were from what Callula Lillibelle shelled out in February. “We’ve moved on from Mad
Men and infused a little exuberance in there,” says William Calvert, the dexterous hands behind the new line that can now be called a “fresh” new line. “It was time to rock on and have fun.
I’m not going to worry about good taste or bad taste. Our suitings are still sleek and wearable, but everything else is an accessory. This season we just wanted to have all gloves off and
have fun.”
What could’ve been keeping Calvert from having this much fun the first time around? Either way, the frumpiness that dominated the fall collection has been tossed for pieces that are
undoubtedly very now! One silver satin back pinpoint cotton bolero jacket with beige and silver satin back pinpoint cotton piped skinny pants was tailored and yet creatively playful at the
same time. The piece playfully referenced Balenciaga, whether intentionally or not (Calvert worked in the French house before branching off on his own).
The colorful palette definitely helped enliven the collection, but it was his beige and silver satin pieces that really packed the sartorially-savory punches, which should say something about
Calvert’s talents, seeing as how the same palette has been putting audiences to sleep at Lincoln Center. Calvert’s joie de vivre should not be a mere passing phase – it should be a tenet
for this newly fresh, young line.
was just the ticket we needed to get that sense of fun and pop of color spring 2011 had been lacking so thoroughly.
Walking in and seeing the models on stadium risers, it was hard to believe how sharp the departures were from what Callula Lillibelle shelled out in February. “We’ve moved on from Mad
Men and infused a little exuberance in there,” says William Calvert, the dexterous hands behind the new line that can now be called a “fresh” new line. “It was time to rock on and have fun.
I’m not going to worry about good taste or bad taste. Our suitings are still sleek and wearable, but everything else is an accessory. This season we just wanted to have all gloves off and
have fun.”
What could’ve been keeping Calvert from having this much fun the first time around? Either way, the frumpiness that dominated the fall collection has been tossed for pieces that are
undoubtedly very now! One silver satin back pinpoint cotton bolero jacket with beige and silver satin back pinpoint cotton piped skinny pants was tailored and yet creatively playful at the
same time. The piece playfully referenced Balenciaga, whether intentionally or not (Calvert worked in the French house before branching off on his own).
The colorful palette definitely helped enliven the collection, but it was his beige and silver satin pieces that really packed the sartorially-savory punches, which should say something about
Calvert’s talents, seeing as how the same palette has been putting audiences to sleep at Lincoln Center. Calvert’s joie de vivre should not be a mere passing phase – it should be a tenet
for this newly fresh, young line.
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