Ports 1961:
'Tia Cibani ventures into a realm that is rooted in the
past yet reaches for the present'
POSTED February, 11 2010
FASHION WEEK
One of the many beautiful things about the Ports 1961 line is that every season designer
Tia Cibani evolves the brand and the woman that defines the collection. For
Fall 2010,
Cibani’s foray into classic artisanal meets tomorrow’s silhouettes is not necessarily a
new step, but it’s always artistically invigorating. Old meets new is Cibani’s forte and her
latest showing at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week has proven to be one of her best
showcase yet. The progression of the show, from look to look, is jam-packed with history,
homage, and augury – a remarkable hodgepodge that feels like a singular collection.
Cibani has a remarkable knack for embellishments. It’s difficult to think of another
designer working today who relies as heavily as Cibani in the use of her dearly beloved
artistic tropes. Her usual glazed ceramic and blown glass pod necklaces are still a big
part of her aesthetic this go-around, but hardly feels redundant.

Other exciting conceits were the ginger leather hats that felt like they were simultaneously
extracted from a nun’s habit from the 40’s as well as from a time that hasn’t come to
pass. There are fun and surprising uses of zippers, perfectly melded palettes ranging
from mulberry, tobacco and iris to the soothing neutralities of chicory, clover and pepper.
Some delightful showcases were a pepper posie print jumpsuit accentuated by a ginger
leather belt as well as a stunningly sexy tobacco sculpted dress and the architecturally
daring insert of an iris jacquared dress strewn with the pixilated vibrations of intarsia knits.
The holistic accomplishment is unabashedly romantic, reminiscent and ethereal. What a
great way to kick off the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week extravaganza and what a beautiful
adieu to Bryant Park.
Alexander Patiño
Photo Credit: Fernando Colon
Equesterian Edge:
Downtown divas head to the country at Vena Cava's
2010 Fall/Winter Collection Held at Milk Studios NYC
POSTED February, 11 2010
FASHION WEEK
Backstage at Vena Cava we spotted 1/2 of the brand, Sophie Buhai hard at work attending
to some final fittings. Lucky for us, Buhai made time to stitch and chat about the look of the
collection. “We started designing the collection in Woodstock,” says Buhai, whose clients
include Natalie Portman, ‘Gossip Girls’ Blake Lively and top model Liya Kebede. “We
were there for a weekend (with co-designer Lisa Mayock) and I feel like that informed the
decision to make this collection a little more country and a little bit less urban. There’s
kind of a free spirit to all of the pieces.”

Now we know you're think Vena Cava inspired by Woodstock, now that's not a match
made in heaven, but what this stylish design duo sent down the runway was a collection
for an edgy downtown girl looking to escape to the country. “We were looking a lot at 70s
female fiber artists so it a combination of being in Woodstock and thinking about what an
eccentric urban person wears, who’s decided to move to the country and take up fiber art,”
shares Buhai.

Bringing a little Woodstock vibe to the catwalk, Vena Cava show guests were treated to the
sounds of alternative rock band The Like, who jammed out on the runway as models
glided by.
Qianna Smith
Photo Credit: Fernando Colon
Oumlil Fall 2010:
Since launching in 2005, Oumlil has quickly become one
of the industry’s most exciting new menswear labels  
POSTED February, 11 2010
FASHION WEEK
Hisham Oumlil, the Casablancan designer has been making very particular, always
sophisticated and highly innovative men’s ready-to-wear since 2005 and his latest,
“Shades of a Man”, is yet another high-brow articulation of what the debonair of tomorrow
should be. Although his latest collection teetered on an occasional redundant note, the
overall experience is a refreshing awakening of what has felt, for some time now, like a
dead art. Oumlil is as meticulous as a surgeon and as artistically zealous as an avant
garde architect. The greatest little assets of this collection is the subtle use of the scallop
lapel on his wool suits and vests. It added a tasty, idiosyncratic touch to his overall classic
endeavor.

One particular look of the collection, a charcoal gray wool and silk suit with a denim blue
cotton shirt had a particularly fresh feel, perhaps especially because of the finely sculpted
lines above the pockets, which heightened the lux and fitted feel that should only be
natural in a men’s ready-to-wear collection. Other touches, like the raised collars on the
cerulean cashmere knits and the playful silk loafers only added to the line-up, giving the
elegance of the clothes some playfulness to match.

But, surprisingly enough, Oumlil’s strongest showings were found in the more casual
executions. A cashmere and quilted brocade cardigan over a cotton shirt, perfectly
accentuated by a diamond-stitch taffeta bow tie was a genuine show-stopper. The next
time, let’s hope Oumlil spreads his tricks around a little more wisely. There were times
when it seemed like the same look was going out for a second time. The good thing
about that is that this is surely not Oumlil at the peak of the powers he probably hasn’t
tapped into yet. There is something unquestionably fascinating about his work and once
he’s tapped the zenith of his possibilities as a men’s wear designer, the product is sure
to be something even more mesmerizing than what he has given us this season.
Alexander Patiño
Photo Credit: Chris Santiago
A Red Haute Cause:
“Behind the seams” at The Heart Truth’s Red Dress
Collection 2010 Fashion Show
POSTED February, 11 2010
FASHION WEEK
The Heart Truth® went “behind the seams" on the opening night of
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week to remind women that the truth isn't
always pretty—more women die of heart disease than any other disease.

More than 20 of today's hottest celebrities walked the runway in red
dresses including: Bethenny Frankel in Isabella Oliver, Elisabeth
Hasselbeck in Donna Karan, Felicity Huffman in Oscar de la Renta, Dara
Torres in Rachel Roy, Estelle in Zac Posen, Heidi Klum in John Galliano,
Joan Collins in Stephane Rolland, Jordin Sparks in Badgley Mischka,
Kim Kardashian in Notte by Marchesa, Kimora Lee in Kouture by Kimora
Lee, Kristin Chenoweth in Daniel Swarovski, Mamie Gummer in Michael
Kors, Pauley Perrette in Rebecca Taylor, Raven–Symoné in Tadashi
Shoji, Regina King in Tracy Reese, Robin Roberts in J. Crew Collection
and Valerie Harper in Pamela Rolland.

The Heart Truth® is a national awareness campaign for women about
heart disease sponsored by the National Heart, Lung, and Blood Institute
(NHLBI), part of the National Institutes of Health, U.S. Department of
Health and Human Services (HHS). The Red Dress®, introduced by the
NHLBI in 2002, is the national symbol for women and heart disease
awareness.
The Heart Truth's Red Dress Collection 2010 was presented by Diet Coke. National sponsors of the collection included
Swarovski, and Tylenol® and St. Joseph® Aspirin; make-up partner was Bobbi Brown Cosmetics.

Visit
www.hearttruth.gov for information on women and heart disease. For the second consecutive year, through a partnership
with Clothes Off Our Back, a selection of designer dresses worn by celebrities in the fashion show will be auctioned at www.
clothesoffourback.org.  Proceeds will benefit the Foundation for the National Institutes of Health and will be used to further
efforts related to women’s heart health awareness and research.
Photo Credit: Fernando Colon
Mackage:
Structure and sexy go hand-in-hand for this Canadian
design duo
POSTED February, 11 2010
FASHION WEEK
Boys and girls get ready to gear up for a rockin' winter with Mackage's latest collection that
was mixed with strong elements of men's and women's outerwear. Canadian design duo
Elisa Dahan and Eran Elfassy crafted up 43 looks for the coming season that we are sure
you are going to want to get your hands on.

Known for their wool jackets and down coats,
Mackage's fall/winter 2010 collection stayed
true to the brands aesthetic -- studs, exposed zippers, shearling fur collars and one-of-a-
kind leather detailing. “When designing with Eran we create pieces that he likes to see on
a woman and what I love to wear. We have a lot of fun doing that," says Mackage co-
designer Elisa Dahan.

Mackage added ready-to-wear separates to their collection for the first time like this Grey
Princes of Wale check blazer with mini dress (pictured right), tailored body-conscience
dresses and sleek camel studded pants. Fashion Q&A was been a big fan of this label
since first being introduced to the collection four seasons ago. This design duo brilliantly
mixes masculine forms with edgy feminine structure that is essential to the downtown city
chic girl, who covets this sort of style. We would like to see the pair expand their creativity
past the traditional hardware detailing we have come to expect from them. Why not mix up
the embellishments with constructional elements like cooper, wire, nails etc? We are
ready for Mackage to further ignite our imagination with their cutting-edge style that has yet
to reach it's climax.
Qianna Smith
Photo Credit: Fernando Colon
Miguel Antoinne:
Menswear gets a bad-boy gentleman makeover for
fall/winter 2010
POSTED February, 11 2010
FASHION WEEK
Young, talented and driven, emerging American menswear designer Miguel Antoinne
keeps finding new and exciting ways to stay relevant despite challenging market
conditions. Showing for the third connective season at New York Fashion Week, Antoinne
opted for an intimate presentation where he showcased edgy ready-to-wear pieces for the
‘cool, downtown, bad boy gentlemen.’ From functional exposed zippers to distressed knits
to exaggerated jacket collars, the Miguel Antoinne man definitely does not shy away from
making a statement ‒ in fact he embraces it through subtle masculine detailing that sets
his style a part.  “A few of my jackets this season are cropped and meant for layering.
Whether it’s a long graduated sweater or a long shirt, the idea of it is to layer pieces
together to create warmth rather than just cover up,” shares Antoinne.

This capsule collection can easy be mixed and matched. Pants take on an equestrian
vibe while thermals get a makeover. “I wanted to graduate from the thermal trouser and
bring it to an outerwear piece. The past few seasons we’ve seen the thermal worn as an
accessory‒under shorts and under pants,” says Antoinne. “I added a cargo pocket and I
make where it zips up like a normal trouser. But, it’s still a thermal you have that gripped
cuff at the bottom. It’s the evolution of the thermal pant as standalone piece for fall and
then an extra layer under the trouser for winter.”
Qianna Smith
Photo Credit: Fernando Colon
Mr. Brainwash presents Icons:
Filmmaker-turned-street artist Mr. Brainwash presents
his first New York solo exhibition
POSTED February, 11 2010
FASHION WEEK
Think of a major pop culture icon – the first one that pops into your head. Chances are your
subconscious pop culture icon of choice has been Warhol-Banksy’ed by this said
Mr. Brainwash, whose solo exhibit of fine art and installations will open on Valentine’s Day
in a truly impressive 15,000 square foot art gallery in New York’s own Meatpacking District.

There’s a little bit of a charlatan tactic in Brainwash’s methodology (One look at his work
and you have to wonder if either Warhol or Banksy themselves were major contributors to
the solo exhibit, ironically enough). Obama in Superman costume, Angelina Jolie bearing
a perky Marilyn Monroe bob, or Charlie Chaplin partaking in Madonna graffiti – the exhibit is
a hyperbolic explosion of the most glorified 20th and 21st century celebrities, fashion
designers, musicians and other symbols of American culture. Some pieces are truly
miraculous, in particular, the myriad portraitures made entirely of shards of vinyl records.
Although most of it feels like a recycled experience, it is very difficult to discount the
exhibition’s inherent charm. It’s a lot of fun and is undoubtedly worth a good long gander.
Photo Credit: Chris Santiago
Alexander Patiño