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Edition by Georges Chakra Fall 2010:
Designs for Life's Cinematic Moments
Designs for Life's Cinematic Moments
POSTED February, 13 2010
FASHION WEEK
Carrie Underwood recently donned a gown from Edition by Georges Chakra’s spring 2010
collection to the 52nd Annual Grammy Music Awards. And, you can count on seeing more
Hollywood leading ladies decked out in designs from Chakra’s fall/winter 2010 collection
that was packed with pieces deserving of a red carpet moment.
Gowns in royal red hues ruled the runway and captivated our attention like this half shoulder
chiffon gown with a high front split (pictured center). Offering a bevy of evening wear options,
from fitted cocktail sheaths to tailored suits and tuxedos, Chakra crafted-up designs for
every type of special event that calls for something glamorous and one-of-a-kind.
collection to the 52nd Annual Grammy Music Awards. And, you can count on seeing more
Hollywood leading ladies decked out in designs from Chakra’s fall/winter 2010 collection
that was packed with pieces deserving of a red carpet moment.
Gowns in royal red hues ruled the runway and captivated our attention like this half shoulder
chiffon gown with a high front split (pictured center). Offering a bevy of evening wear options,
from fitted cocktail sheaths to tailored suits and tuxedos, Chakra crafted-up designs for
every type of special event that calls for something glamorous and one-of-a-kind.
Qianna Smith
Twinkle by Wenlan F/W 2010:
The tale of Hansel and Gretel falls short
The tale of Hansel and Gretel falls short
POSTED February, 13 2010
FASHION WEEK
Twinkle. If we’re talking about the presence and the power that is to be expected of a
collection showing at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, then Twinkle couldn’t be more
appropriately named. One of the most underwhelming experiences of the season,
Twinkle by Wenlan managed to do the very opposite of what most designers are so eager
to accomplish this season: aim for tomorrow. Inspired by the tale of Hansel and Gretel,
we had hoped designer Wenlan Chia's fairy tale of fall fashions would spark some child
like excitement for the coming season. Instead, Chia has slapped together a collection
that is yawn inducing in its cultural ubiquity. We’ve seen these dresses before.
If one sets themselves up to tackle their own version of the LBD, wouldn’t one, as a
designer, do their best to put their own personal stamp on fashion’s ultimate golden
oldie? One of the disastrous takes on the little black dress was a sleeveless knit dress,
with an admittedly nice top and a displeasingly boxy bottom. The disconnect from top to
bottom is so unflattering that it is a wonder how anyone let it come down the runway in
such a state.
That is not to say that Chia’s collection was completely without merit. One pair of olive
rider pants have to be the slickest and sexiest pair of rider pants seen all week in or
outside of the tents and at least one single take on the LBD worked nicely – a black
strapless cocktail dress with clever and modern geometric camel panels.
collection showing at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, then Twinkle couldn’t be more
appropriately named. One of the most underwhelming experiences of the season,
Twinkle by Wenlan managed to do the very opposite of what most designers are so eager
to accomplish this season: aim for tomorrow. Inspired by the tale of Hansel and Gretel,
we had hoped designer Wenlan Chia's fairy tale of fall fashions would spark some child
like excitement for the coming season. Instead, Chia has slapped together a collection
that is yawn inducing in its cultural ubiquity. We’ve seen these dresses before.
If one sets themselves up to tackle their own version of the LBD, wouldn’t one, as a
designer, do their best to put their own personal stamp on fashion’s ultimate golden
oldie? One of the disastrous takes on the little black dress was a sleeveless knit dress,
with an admittedly nice top and a displeasingly boxy bottom. The disconnect from top to
bottom is so unflattering that it is a wonder how anyone let it come down the runway in
such a state.
That is not to say that Chia’s collection was completely without merit. One pair of olive
rider pants have to be the slickest and sexiest pair of rider pants seen all week in or
outside of the tents and at least one single take on the LBD worked nicely – a black
strapless cocktail dress with clever and modern geometric camel panels.
Alexander Patiño
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ARISE African Collective Part III:
Africa's best & brightest design talent take over the
main Tent of Bryant Park
Africa's best & brightest design talent take over the
main Tent of Bryant Park
POSTED February, 13 2010
FASHION WEEK
Making a presence at New York Fashion Week for the third consecutive season is the ARISE
African Collective. Creating a stage for Africa’s top design talent the collective has become
one of the most anticipated shows at MBFW New York. With the world’s most wanted
models of color descending down the catwalk in designs unknown to the US it makes for
one of the most exciting runway events of the week.
Up first and fresh from Berlin Fashion Week, Black Coffee designers Jacques van der Watt
and Danica Lepen debuted to their first US audience. “It's a great experience for us and a
little bit of a treat in a business that is a great deal of hard work,” said van der Watt, whose
collection was inspired by the simple structured lines of African masks that came to life in
the shapes of the coats that came down the catwalk.
For the first time, an emerging designer, Loin Cloth and Ashes, from Tanzania, took part of
the collective and this new comer has very promising future. “My one dream was always to
show my work in Africa,” said Anisa Mpungwe, who referenced an origami bird motif
throughout her collection as seen on shirts, scarves and necklaces. “I would have never for
one minute thought that I would ever show overseas, let alone in America, I am grateful to
ARISE Magazine for this incredible opportunity.”
Last but not least, was Lagos-based Deola Sagoe, who returned to New York Fashion Week
for the first time in a decade. “To have come this far ordains a measure of success that I
could not have imagined for myself. I am thrilled and honoured to be showing in New York.”
Sagoe's designs referenced the strength of East African Maasai warriors and the
architectural structure of 18th century Europe, resulting in a collection that was edgy, body
conscience and packed with detailed embellishments.
African Collective. Creating a stage for Africa’s top design talent the collective has become
one of the most anticipated shows at MBFW New York. With the world’s most wanted
models of color descending down the catwalk in designs unknown to the US it makes for
one of the most exciting runway events of the week.
Up first and fresh from Berlin Fashion Week, Black Coffee designers Jacques van der Watt
and Danica Lepen debuted to their first US audience. “It's a great experience for us and a
little bit of a treat in a business that is a great deal of hard work,” said van der Watt, whose
collection was inspired by the simple structured lines of African masks that came to life in
the shapes of the coats that came down the catwalk.
For the first time, an emerging designer, Loin Cloth and Ashes, from Tanzania, took part of
the collective and this new comer has very promising future. “My one dream was always to
show my work in Africa,” said Anisa Mpungwe, who referenced an origami bird motif
throughout her collection as seen on shirts, scarves and necklaces. “I would have never for
one minute thought that I would ever show overseas, let alone in America, I am grateful to
ARISE Magazine for this incredible opportunity.”
Last but not least, was Lagos-based Deola Sagoe, who returned to New York Fashion Week
for the first time in a decade. “To have come this far ordains a measure of success that I
could not have imagined for myself. I am thrilled and honoured to be showing in New York.”
Sagoe's designs referenced the strength of East African Maasai warriors and the
architectural structure of 18th century Europe, resulting in a collection that was edgy, body
conscience and packed with detailed embellishments.
Qianna Smith
Photo Credit: Fernando Colon
A.Z Araujo Brings the Heat to MBFW NY
POSTED February, 13 2010
FASHION WEEK
Though the weather was too cold for words on the eve the A.Z Araujo Fall 2010 collection
showed there was no doubt the designs were set out to warm up all fashion goers what
else can be expected when Speedo’s and bikinis are going down the runway. Barely
there pieces resembled what Avatars wear. A mixture of leather, suede, organza, wool,
and lace helped create looks that were strong and feminine. Touches of animal prints and
Swarovski crystal details gave the designs life.
An odd pairing of printed Speedo’s and oversized scarves caught everyone’s eye. Stand
out pieces were the lace cover up dresses that flowed down the runway with either
dramatic layered ultra fem shoulders that gave the illusion of neatly torn fabric or a pretty
one shoulder with uneven hems. Though neutral colors dominated the show two
swimsuits were on every girls must have list, a stunning black one piece with mesh
detailing and Swarovski crystals and a gorgeous white Grecian one shoulder one piece
with a few loose strands at the shoulder and Swarovski crystals. Our longing for warmer
weather increased 100 percent by the time the last look stepped off the runway.
showed there was no doubt the designs were set out to warm up all fashion goers what
else can be expected when Speedo’s and bikinis are going down the runway. Barely
there pieces resembled what Avatars wear. A mixture of leather, suede, organza, wool,
and lace helped create looks that were strong and feminine. Touches of animal prints and
Swarovski crystal details gave the designs life.
An odd pairing of printed Speedo’s and oversized scarves caught everyone’s eye. Stand
out pieces were the lace cover up dresses that flowed down the runway with either
dramatic layered ultra fem shoulders that gave the illusion of neatly torn fabric or a pretty
one shoulder with uneven hems. Though neutral colors dominated the show two
swimsuits were on every girls must have list, a stunning black one piece with mesh
detailing and Swarovski crystals and a gorgeous white Grecian one shoulder one piece
with a few loose strands at the shoulder and Swarovski crystals. Our longing for warmer
weather increased 100 percent by the time the last look stepped off the runway.
Jerrica Navarro
Photo Credit: Chris Santiago
Photo Credit: Fernando Colon
Irina Shabayeva F/W 2010:
Wins again with a top notch showing at MBFW New York
Wins again with a top notch showing at MBFW New York
POSTED February, 13 2010
FASHION WEEK
Upon entering the venue where Project Runway season 6 winner, Irina Shabayeva, was to
present her fall/winter 2010 collection, one this was for sure: one way or the other, this was going
to be a fun show. The energy in the room was vibrant, both with Mercedes Benz Fashion Week
elation and surely with anticipation. Young waiters were catering to the crowd, dolling out
assortments of hor d’oeuvres and amuse bouche while two separate bars gave out wines and
juices. From the look of the venue, the hospitality and the elegant gift bags courtesy of
Tupperware – it felt like all those present were in for something special, but nothing could’ve
prepared anyone for what was to come.
If anyone who watched Project Runway last season had any doubts as to whether Shabayeva
deserved the coveted grand prize, this fall/winter collection grinds those all into a fine powder,
dispelling all queries into the fray. One could call it jaw-dropping; some may say it’s
unprecedented and some may even call it a work of utter mastery. The truth is that it’s all that and
more. It’s the kind of collection that makes writing about it difficult because to see it in person at
such a spectacular show is something that can’t be easily conveyed and won’t be easily
forgotten.
The show opened, ironically, with a show-stopper, a piece that stated firmly and immediately that
this designer means business. A camel cashmere pheasant print coat with a crystal fur collar
turned the corner and onto the runway that shocked in a beautiful way. One would be hard-
pressed to find a more refreshingly alive, artistically original and classic looking coat. And to think
that all that pheasant feather detail (and all those to follow) was hand-painted. In true Irina
Shabayeva form, there were lots and lots of leather and fur, all of which was used beautifully in
this Dr. Zhivagoesque line that was surely Shabayeva’s ode to her Russian roots. The feather
details made their way, not just to the cashmere fur-lined coats, but on chic and short wool skirts,
on the dazzling earrings and necklaces made with Tupperware products, on the gob-smackingly
haute cocktail dresses and cigarette pants with exquisite hand-beading detail, and even on an
all-too-cool black glider with hand carved leather wings.
Then, she brought out the real feathers, just because she hadn’t fascinated her audience
enough. The show came to a tectonic finish with a pheasant feather handmade strapless
cocktail dress with silk and tulle. Other Project Runway alums, like Gordana Gehlhausen, were
just as stunned. “I’ve been at the tents all week and all day and I have to say this is the best show
I’ve seen all week.” Recently “aufed” Project Runwayer Jesus Estrada was just as giddy about
the whole collection. “I’m amazed. I’m speechless,” says Estrada. “But I expected something like
this from Irina. She’s such an amazing designer. The way she incorporated the feathers and the
inspiration of wings was amazing. She made it work!” Such a shame that it had to come to an
end at some point. Our fur-lined hats off to Irina Shabayeva. She’s a winner again.
present her fall/winter 2010 collection, one this was for sure: one way or the other, this was going
to be a fun show. The energy in the room was vibrant, both with Mercedes Benz Fashion Week
elation and surely with anticipation. Young waiters were catering to the crowd, dolling out
assortments of hor d’oeuvres and amuse bouche while two separate bars gave out wines and
juices. From the look of the venue, the hospitality and the elegant gift bags courtesy of
Tupperware – it felt like all those present were in for something special, but nothing could’ve
prepared anyone for what was to come.
If anyone who watched Project Runway last season had any doubts as to whether Shabayeva
deserved the coveted grand prize, this fall/winter collection grinds those all into a fine powder,
dispelling all queries into the fray. One could call it jaw-dropping; some may say it’s
unprecedented and some may even call it a work of utter mastery. The truth is that it’s all that and
more. It’s the kind of collection that makes writing about it difficult because to see it in person at
such a spectacular show is something that can’t be easily conveyed and won’t be easily
forgotten.
The show opened, ironically, with a show-stopper, a piece that stated firmly and immediately that
this designer means business. A camel cashmere pheasant print coat with a crystal fur collar
turned the corner and onto the runway that shocked in a beautiful way. One would be hard-
pressed to find a more refreshingly alive, artistically original and classic looking coat. And to think
that all that pheasant feather detail (and all those to follow) was hand-painted. In true Irina
Shabayeva form, there were lots and lots of leather and fur, all of which was used beautifully in
this Dr. Zhivagoesque line that was surely Shabayeva’s ode to her Russian roots. The feather
details made their way, not just to the cashmere fur-lined coats, but on chic and short wool skirts,
on the dazzling earrings and necklaces made with Tupperware products, on the gob-smackingly
haute cocktail dresses and cigarette pants with exquisite hand-beading detail, and even on an
all-too-cool black glider with hand carved leather wings.
Then, she brought out the real feathers, just because she hadn’t fascinated her audience
enough. The show came to a tectonic finish with a pheasant feather handmade strapless
cocktail dress with silk and tulle. Other Project Runway alums, like Gordana Gehlhausen, were
just as stunned. “I’ve been at the tents all week and all day and I have to say this is the best show
I’ve seen all week.” Recently “aufed” Project Runwayer Jesus Estrada was just as giddy about
the whole collection. “I’m amazed. I’m speechless,” says Estrada. “But I expected something like
this from Irina. She’s such an amazing designer. The way she incorporated the feathers and the
inspiration of wings was amazing. She made it work!” Such a shame that it had to come to an
end at some point. Our fur-lined hats off to Irina Shabayeva. She’s a winner again.
Alexander Patiño
Callula Lillibelle:
Designer William Calvert & partner Melanie Fraser Hart
Debut at MBFW New York F/W 2010
Designer William Calvert & partner Melanie Fraser Hart
Debut at MBFW New York F/W 2010
POSTED February, 13 2010
FASHION WEEK
Couture designer William Calvert and business extraordinaire Melanie Fraser Hart have
teamed up to present their brand new line Callula Lillibelle, the “ultimate desk to dinner
label”. Together, fusing Calvert’s couture skills and Fraser Hart’s expertise in accessible
enterprise, they have made a line of contemporary, made-to-fit wear for women of all
shapes and sizes (impressively, the collection ranges from sizes 0 – 14). “No woman has
a perfect body or a perfect body-type. The clothes can take you from desk to dinner,
whether you have a large chest, a small chest, if you’re tall, or if you’re hourglass. All body
types are addressed in this collection,” says Calvert of his debuting collaborative effort.
Before starting Callula Lillibelle and his own eponymously named couture line, Calvert
worked for major heavyweights like Balenciaga, Balmain, Diane von Furstenberg and
J. Mendel. There’s a rich pedigree behind the artisanship of Calvert’s work, but with Hart’s
input, together they’ve delivered a fashionable and functional accessibility. Their Jacquard
pieces, particularly an emerald skyline dress and an emerald multi tie silk double
breasted dress were some of the highlights of the nineteen looks that made up the debut
collection. The pieces were ultimately feminine, with a delicious use of rich colors and
with an inherent, but subtle flair of conceptualism. “[Melanie] and I started talking about the
show Mad Men and how much we loved it, but the idea wasn’t to do retro. We wanted to
take that concept – the buttoned up decadence – and spin that for 2010. The Callula
Lillibelle woman is dressed up, but she’s also a little dangerous.”
teamed up to present their brand new line Callula Lillibelle, the “ultimate desk to dinner
label”. Together, fusing Calvert’s couture skills and Fraser Hart’s expertise in accessible
enterprise, they have made a line of contemporary, made-to-fit wear for women of all
shapes and sizes (impressively, the collection ranges from sizes 0 – 14). “No woman has
a perfect body or a perfect body-type. The clothes can take you from desk to dinner,
whether you have a large chest, a small chest, if you’re tall, or if you’re hourglass. All body
types are addressed in this collection,” says Calvert of his debuting collaborative effort.
Before starting Callula Lillibelle and his own eponymously named couture line, Calvert
worked for major heavyweights like Balenciaga, Balmain, Diane von Furstenberg and
J. Mendel. There’s a rich pedigree behind the artisanship of Calvert’s work, but with Hart’s
input, together they’ve delivered a fashionable and functional accessibility. Their Jacquard
pieces, particularly an emerald skyline dress and an emerald multi tie silk double
breasted dress were some of the highlights of the nineteen looks that made up the debut
collection. The pieces were ultimately feminine, with a delicious use of rich colors and
with an inherent, but subtle flair of conceptualism. “[Melanie] and I started talking about the
show Mad Men and how much we loved it, but the idea wasn’t to do retro. We wanted to
take that concept – the buttoned up decadence – and spin that for 2010. The Callula
Lillibelle woman is dressed up, but she’s also a little dangerous.”
Photo Credit: Chris Santiago
Alexander Patiño
