Knitwear Extraordinaire Craig Lawrence Presents
his 'Seduction of the Night' for Fall/Winter 2011
By Isabella Redmond Styles
POSTED February 20, 2011
There are surely few people in the world who can make yarn cool. Luckily, Craig Lawrence is one of them. This former Central Saint Martins’ attendee
has a way with the knitting needles and the end product is always sexy and edgy. Unsurprisingly, his Fall/Winter (FW) 2011 collection played to that
unusual talent. There’s been a color war raging at London Fashion Week between those designers who prefer their FW collections to be dark and
mysterious and those who don’t want to restrict pop art shades to Spring/Summer alone. Lawrence was definitely of the former, his choice of hue being
inspired by ‘the seduction of the night.’ But it was the skilled technique and the abundance of texture in the collection that made it so eye catching.
Most of the looks were long and body conscious, woven so intricately that they resembled a second, gothic skin but still had a tactility about them. The
former knitwear designer for Gareth Pugh uses unconventional materials like cellophane to create pieces that are striking, but bizarrely wearable. The
knitted electric blue cellophane dress wouldn’t look out of place at a film premiere next to the usual load of couture. Texture is shaping up to be major
trend for FW and Lawrence served up plenty, very cleverly using looped yarn to create a fur effect on several pieces (another stand out trend come Fall).
There were a few showstopping pieces that would garner odd looks on the street but would have Lady Gaga (she’s already a fan) banging down
Lawrence’s door. Velvet which had been slashed and crushed was knitted into a turtleneck vest dress complete with tassles and a fishnet train formed of
velvet strands that had been left loose. Velvet is a fall staple and Lawrence can do no wrong in interpreting it in a new light. A bolero had been given
Lawrence’s clever fur effect and was paired with a single knitted cardigan, which bore very little resemblance to the ordinary notion of a cardy and had a
dramatic flare effect. This was Lawrence‘s fifth season with the British Fashion Council’s NewGen, but his knack for knits hasn’t grown old. Once again,
Lawrence has weaved together a collection that it is well crafted, sexy and highly desirable.