Jena Theo Channels ‘The Valkyrie’ via Urban Warrior
By Isabella Redmond Styles
POSTED February 19, 2011
‘The Valkyrie’ was the main source of inspiration for Jenny Holmes and Dimitris
Theocharidis (right), known under their fashion guise as Jena.Theo. Not to be confused with
the Wagnerian opera or Tom Cruise’s 2008 flop of a film, the Valkyrie that Holmes and
Theocharidis looked towards was the Norse triumvirate –the ‘band of celestial female
figures who decided who will die in the field of battle and take their chosen warriors to the
Hall of the
Slain- Valhalla.’ These were clothes for the modern female warrior, garments fit for
conquering an urban battlefield. Powerful, billowing shapes were given a cool, contemporary
edge with denim, leather and suede. It was decidedly dark and stormy. Cream was the
lightest hue on the runway, appearing only in a few draped knits and tees.
Draping itself was a major focus in the collection, alluding to the Art Deco movement which
influenced the designers. This artful draping lent the looks sensuality and softness that
provided respite from what was otherwise a gothic, androgynous show. The color palette
rarely budged from black or grey, which allowed the designers to be more adventurous with the silhouette of the pieces. Sportswear shapes were popular
and gave short jersey dresses a cool elegance. Jena.Theo played clever tricks with textures by using jersey so fine that it looked like silk and silk so shiny
that it could have been leather. Lengths were long with a lot of the dark jersey outerwear resembling punked up graduation gowns. There was a concerted
lack of pattern or decoration, apart from a moody sepia toned print emblazoned on two short dresses. Make up was simple, but severe which added to the
androgynous power of the collection. The girls’ hair was loose and sexily tousled to resemble a Norse goddess, but it was juxtaposed with a thick black
band of eye makeup, which made it more riot grrl than romantic.
Jena.Theo’s Fall 2011 offering isn’t necessarily every woman’s idea of wearable clothing, but it is a sharp reflection on the style of some of London’s
coolest kids. Voluminous, brooding but street savvy, these are the kind of kids who’ll take you to Valhalla if you say you don’t like their shoes.