Jean-Pierre
Braganza:
Fierce Furs for Fall/Winter
Jean-Pierre Braganza’s taste cannot be denied. He has a very
sexy, stalwart, scientific aesthetic. I’d hasten to call it “skeletal.”
For his fall collection, “Totempyrean,” it seemed it was not the
UK that propelled his creative fervor, but New York City.

Fur-lined booties and necklines were a major proponent in his
collection, which worked handsomely against the fitted
silhouettes of his little black dresses. “Opposites attract”
seemed like the credo of the collection – big voluminous
wrappings, fitted dresses, fluffy fur and tight leather all
coalesced perfectly in a couple of showstoppers shown on the
runway, but it seems that Braganza’s overly brainy creations
got the better of him in the end. The strong beginning, full of
cable-knits, asymmetric structures and playful androgyny came
to a rather screeching halt towards the end with his all-too-
familiar McQueen-esque white Rorschach-textile prints.

While the wide array of fabrics worked strongly together in
specific pieces, the holistic product of the show seemed a bit
haphazard, as if he were trying to give us a glimpse of a future
collection to follow. It’s never a matter of taste with Braganza, or
creativity for that matter. He’s a designer that can truly turn
fashion into art. Let’s just see if in the interim, from now to his
next couple of collections, if he learns the great art of
editorializing restraint.
By Alexander Patiño