By Alexander Patino, Photos By Ettore Panichi
London Calling on Yves Saint Laurent
|


For the first time ever, go behind the scenes of the latest Fashion Q+A editorial shoot “London Calling" with UK-based makeup artist extraordinaire Laura Dexter as she takes you on a
step-by-step journey toward attaining the scintillant and summery beauty look on our model Kasia Bober.
"As a professional makeup artist, it’s necessary to keep abreast of all the latest innovations in makeup application, and since last year, it’s safe to say that no one has made as big a splash
in that department as Yves Saint Laurent’s new resident International Makeup Artist Lloyd Simmonds," says Dexter, whose work has been featured in the UK edition of the Sunday Times,
Q, OK! and Look magazines. Given Simmonds' debut Rouge Pur Couture lipstick line and his spring 2011’s ‘Boheme Libertine’ collection, the whole beauty world is looking to Simmonds
for the next big thing.
Armed with a beauty bag overflowing in Simmonds’ YSL makeup wonders, Dexter set up shop with the Q+A editorial crew at London’s Park Lane Hotel and guided us through the entire
makeup application process – from a natural blank canvas to springtime-perfect glamour.












1. Start with a clean slate
It’s imperative that you start the process towards achieving
your look with clean, clear skin. Focus on using only great
products – only then will your skin reap the benefits.
Dexter: “I begin any makeup application with moisturized
skin. I recommend Dermalogica Active Moist ($37,
dermilogica.com). With its sheer moisture, it helps solve
even the worst bouts of surface dehydration.”
2. Handle your smackers with care
When the time comes to apply your lipstick, you’re really
going to want the color to pop, so make sure to get rid of any
natural excesses on the lips.
Dexter: “The Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream Lip Protectant
Stick ($17, shop.elizabetharden.com) is an absolute
must-have. This skincare classic restores, calms and helps
revive chapped, cracked skin. Models love to prep their lips
with this golden oldie before and between shoots.”
3. Smooth the surface
No amount of makeup can account for exhausted,
fatigued-looking skin. That’s why Dexter prepped our model
Kasia's skin with a concentrate, YSL’s new technological
breakthrough for makeup lovers with even the most
sensitive skin.
Dexter: “I dab YSL’s Top Secrets Beauty Sleep – Radiance
Revealing Concentrate ($75, yslbeautyus.com) under the
eyes to help diminish dry lines, which helps to replump the
skin. This creates the smooth surface that’s ideal for
makeup application.”
4. Primer
No true makeup application is secure without a good primer
to give you that porcelain-perfect skin.
Dexter: “YSL’s Matt Touch Primer ($42, yslbeautyus.com)
is a beautiful product. The Spherical Micro-powders control
the oils in the skin, which helps prep the surface and
ensures that makeup stays fresh for longer. As soon as I
applied the primer, Kasia’s skin tone instantly evened out as
it brightened her complexion. With YSL’s Matt Touch Primer
in place, we were ready to get started.”
5. Highlighter
Every woman needs that go-to ‘Renaissance’ tool in her
makeup bag that is going to cover all the bases, from
erasing fatigue around the eyes, refreshing the lids, to
sculpting and highlighting the natural countenance and
plumping the lips – that’s why Dexter looked no further than
the product that is sold somewhere in the world every ten
seconds -- YSL’s No. 1 top-selling beauty product for over 20
years – Touche Eclat.
Dexter: “It’s no secret that almost every pro makeup artist
has a Touche Eclat ($40, yslbeautyus.com) pen in their
makeup bag. As I was prepping Kasia at the photo-shoot, I
applied Touche Eclat under her eye area, which instantly
made her complexion look rested and rejuvenated by
lightening any dark circles. I also lifted the Touche Eclat onto
her cheekbones for some enhancement. You can also apply
the pen to the cupid bow to highlight the area and accentuate
the top lip.”
6. Foundation
One of the oldest tenets of makeup application is finding a
foundation that matches your skin tone, but in this day and
age YSL goes one step further by creating a foundation that
not only imbues natural, flawless radiance, but also comes
with that necessary protection from the elements – SPF 20.
Dexter: “I used YSL’s Teint Radiance Foundation ($48,
yslbeautyus.com) because of its beautiful sheer texture and
its buildable coverage that helps cover uneven pigmentation.”
8. Powder
A semi-loose powder is without question the way to go for
spring 2011. Try to get the best of both worlds with a pressed
powder that achieves the lightness of a loose powder. It will
leave your skin feeling luminously highlighted and with a
matte-fresh sensation.
Dexter: “There’s a difference between dewy and sweaty. To
combat either of these looks, I use YSL’s Poudre Sur
Mesure ($60, yslbeautyus.com) loose powder to take away
the excess shine – leaving the skin glowing with a healthy
sheen. This is best applied with a small blending brush and
lightly dab around the T-zone and chin area.”
9. Eyes
This season, the best enhancement to colorful and bold lips
are equally dazzling eyes.
Dexter: “I tidied up Kasia’s eyebrows and groomed them. I
worked out the thin areas with YSL’s Dessin Des Sourcils
($28, yslbeautyus.com) eyebrow pencil in Ash. Then, I
brushed through to soften. I finished it off with a coat of clear
eyebrow gel to keep all the hairs in place.
The shoot required bright and colorful shades on the
eyes – something bold enough to complement, not distract
from, the lips. We ended up going with a catwalk eye for
'London Calling'. To get that catwalk eye, I blended a cream
eye shadow primer all over the lids before applying an eye
shadow. This helps give the pigment more depth and also
makes the eye shadow stay on for longer."
“After pressing a teal pigment on the lids, I applied YSL’s
Ombres 5 Lumiere – Indian Pink ($56, yslbeautyus.com)
eye shadow above in the socket line for definition. I finished
the eyes with YSL’s Volume Effet Faux Cils – High Density
Black ($30, yslbeautyus.com) mascara to finish the look with
a great false lash effect.”
10. Lips
A bold and colorful lip is the ultimate beauty statement of the
season. An exciting pop of color is the definitive signature of
spring. Lipstick can instantly transform your look without too
much effort, so experiment and play around with color –
keeping the rest of your makeup looking natural and flawless.
Dexter: “YSL’s masterful Rouge Pur Couture ($30,
yslbeautyus.com) lipstick was the star of the show at our
'London Calling' shoot. YSL's Lloyd Simmonds has brought
in new vibrant pinks, corals and reds that really gave our look
the boost it needed. Throughout the shoot, I used No. 4
Rouge Vermillon, 13 Le Orangee and No. 17 Rose Dahlia.
For a little high-shine shimmer action, I applied YSL’s
Golden Gloss ($30, yslbeautyus.com) No. 18 Golden
Lavender to finish off the look. With this final glamorous
touch in place, Kasia was ready for her first look."
7. Blush
The main issue women have with most blushes out in the
market is an inherent waxy quality which sometime makes
blush crease through the makeup. But with innovative
cream to powder blushes that are gracing the spring
counters, you’ll be bound to feel silky smooth rather than
bogged down with patchy creams.
Dexter: “To complement the shoot’s bright colors, I used
YSL’s Crème de Blush No. 1 Velvety Peach ($38,
yslbeautyus.com) on the apples of Kasia’s cheeks to give a
bright flush to her natural pigmentation. You can apply this
with your fingers or with a medium-sized angled brush like
YSL’s Blusher Brush ($43, yslbeautyus.com).”
Makeup artist Laura Dexter gets model Kasia Bober photo fabulous