By Alexander Patino
POSTED September 13, 2011
MBFW NEW YORK
The Sporty Side of Elegance Reigns at Tibi for SS 12
Amy Smilovic has ditched the girly poofs and romantic eyelet cuts that had defined the Tibi brand for the past few
seasons for something more stark and clean - a minimalism with a sporty gravitas. But the elegant touches remain -
perhaps they don't flourish - it's the body that's the highlight at.
"The starting point was a stack of old magazines that I had, like old 1990s Vogues," said Smilovic backstage. "My
design team would pass by my desk and they'd say 'Oh, this is the new Vogue' and I'm like 'No. It's twelve years
old.' It felt new and fresh right now - it was pictures of Giselle and Gwyneth Paltrow in the 90s that just embodied
how you want to feel today." Minimalism served as that specific marker of just how women are dressing these days.
A glossy pink melon shorts suit ensemble over a white button-up looked sweet, but distinctly adult - perhaps what
Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein Collection would served up were he doing less serious, more sporty wares.
It was an even-keeled exercise in melding formality and the leisurely, like with the cut and lines on a yellow sleeveless
column dress, but not so much on a turquoise long-sleeve slip that looked a bit all lax and zero umph. You could see
spectators sit to attention when a black leather shirtdress with cobalt silk sleeves came down runway, as well as with a
pair of flowy green track pants with a white floral print. A bit referential, but still chic enough to guarantee that the buyers
in the room kept that item right at the top of their must-have lists.
SHOP THE BRAND