Comes to NY
Calcutta-based designer Sabyasachi
Mukherjee Debuts in New York
By Chris Harris
Color and textile took center stage at the
Sabyasachi Spring 2009 RTW show. Taking
palate cues from the painters Emil Nolde and
Paul Gauguin, Sabyasachi Mukherjee
creates a lot of drama with his use of strong
earthbound colors: warm reds, cobalt blues,
deep plums and emerald greens.
The beauty look of Sabyasachi was conservative
chic with a touch of drama placed on the lips.
Make-up artist used a deep plum lip color for
intensity. For hair think disheveled secretary.
His fabrics are heavily textured and all exquisite; in fact they steal the show -- the simple line-oriented designs are
mere support for the fine embroidery and meticulous workmanship. He runs the gamut from soft and breezy to
strong and structured – sometimes to a bit of discord – often the pieces work better as separates.
Overall, the look is prim without a hint of prudish and fun without getting too excited. The women on the runway
here are not the most popular girls, rather they are the quiet, bold bookish type that, given the clusters of buttons
and patches of loose fabric, probably makes her own clothes. Mukherjee is a strong colorist and has a
remarkable gift for beautiful textiles but in the end the note this collection hits is a touch too "crafty".
|"The women on the runway here are not
the most popular girls, rather they are
the quiet, bold bookish type."