Vauxhall Fashion Scout: Ones to Watch - Fall 2011
Anja Mlakar | Kirsty Ward | Sara Bro-Jorgensen | Tze Goh
By Alexander Patino
POSTED February 21, 2011
London's answer to New York's Ecco Domani
Fashion Foundation, Vauxhall Fashion Scout's
"Ones to Watch" Fall 2011 showcase was
packed with the kind of outside-the-box artistry
that makes fashionistas worldwide flock to
London for Fashion Week.
For its 10th season, Vauxhall Fashion Scout
picked four womenswear designers with enough
verve and innovation to make one wonder: What
exactly are all these other established designers
doing? It's exactly the kind of visual kinetics
people go to fashion shows for in the first place.
It's easy to see why Anja Mlakar, Kirsty Ward,
Sara Bro-Jorgensen and Tze Goh have been
taken under the Vauxhall wing.
Kirsty Ward's collection carried on with MBFW's favorite trend, the 3rd Dimension, but tweaked it with that dizzying and delirious British charm. Orange piping on sheer organza created a
cocooned tiering that somehow resembled a collapsable, cylindrical vent. Plenty of cut-outs, like on a pair of tan cigar pants with wide slits at the knees. But it was the interconnectedness of
indisposable play of garment and metal jewelry that really impressed. This Alberta Ferretti alum has definitive point of view and we're happy to see things her way.
Heavy bustling, candied primaries and perforations galore ran rampant through Anja Mlakar's runway. Both Mlakar and Ward heavily explored 3D, but for the former, it was more a question
of plays on volume. A coral long-sleeve bustled party dress definitely rose a couple of eyebrows, but not in a bad way - it was more of a "I just realized I need a coral dress" way.
Singapore born designer Tze
Goh's architectural designs were
definitely the most demure of the
bunch, but that's not to say that
there's not a place for refinement
at London Fashion Week - au
contraire. Although his palette
and fine lines were a bit Jil
Sander-ish, it was the fine
malleability of his clothes that
But let's take a moment to
consider Sara Bro-Jorgensen's
slap-me-silly 2D imagery.
Influenced by the "multi-tonal
qualities of black and white
sent out one of the coolest,
smile-inducing, fabulously tongue-in-cheek ponchos you'll probably ever come across. The sporty poncho had a silk-screen of a grainy, Rorschach-blottish black motorcycle jacket. There
was also terrific sports jacket with a Tuxedo jacket print. The construction of that piece was so excellent that as the jacket met the skirt, it looked like one single dress - not to mention that
the skirt had four shiny, black tuxedo buttons going down the middle from the waist. With the frayed knits that were at work (which heavily recalled Rodarte's goth collection) and those
interesting head pieces, Bro-Jorgensen's girls somehow imbued an urban Londoner on her way out of fencing class. We need a full blown Sara Bro-Jorgensen collection ASAP.