Aminaka Wilmont's Anthropological Search for
Old Deities in the New World
By Alexander Patino
POSTED February 20, 2011
Once again, matted leather sleeves and
strappy buckles - New York's favorite fall
trend - graced the Somerset House
catwalk - although admittedly, others have
done better (it's almost unfair to compare
the work of
Phoebe Philo to that of
Aminaka, but then again - Philo did start
that signature trend).

The best pieces were the draped leather
shorts. It was such an interesting take on
draping, and surely - we haven't seen
many draped shorts recently. It felt
refreshing to see this fun new twist on
such a staple piece. As for the dresses
themselves - and a few great jumpsuits,
the digital print work was manipulated into
strategically placed structured blocks. One
printed draped garment had the print
bunch up on itself (not the actual material)
up the one sleeve - making it look almost
like a second skin.

Granted, the whole "Totem" motif was
hardly a new experience -
and Jean Pierre Braganza have
travelled down that road before. But, this
journey wasn't as robust. This was a more
feminine endeavor, surely. But that doesn't
make it better.
Maki Aminaka is something of an anthropologist. Driven by primitivism and totemic imagery,
Aminaka Wilmont's Fall 2011 collection, appropriately titled "Totem", was a synthesis of the
primeval and the now. Employing soft, economical draping with a healthy dose of digital prints -
made to imbue the garments with an animalistic, almost ethereal essence, the collection was as
feminine and contemporary as it was other-worldly and full of strength.

The asymmetrical slits, like on a long, solid black skirt that cut into a sharp chevron at the thigh and
trailed into a sliver in the back, elicited some front row pointing and obvious covetousness. The first
piece of outerwear on the catwalk, an open-faced black leather coat lined in Italian shearling and
Toscana carried a bit of that Balmain/Military/Rock & Roll vibe, as did a stunning black dress with
embellished epaulets on the collar-line and the shoulders.

Photo Credit: Vincent Cui